Paint Recipe: How to Paint Lothern Sea Guard, Amber Fiefdom Infantry

Thanks to vacation and work ramping back up to near pre-covid levels, this post is coming out later than I was hoping. Regardless, it covers the paints and techniques that I use for my Amber Fiefdom infantry. The models are Lothern Sea Guard from the Spire of Dawn starter kit, which unfortunately is now out of print. The unit of 10 took some time to paint due to the amount of detail on each model, but in the end it was worth it. 


I've also been experimenting with new photo techniques so that details are more visible. Overall, I like the new method, but I do need to invest in a proper lightbox. The clearer image does make mistakes more obvious too, at least to me, which can feel embarrassing, but that's motivation to improve at least. 

For clarity, paints from Games Workshop will have (GW) after their name, and the same will go for Army Painter (AP) and Vallejo (AV). 

As always, the models are primed in Surface Primer Grey (AV). All of the cloth is painted with Hydra Turquoise (AP) then washed with Blue Tone (AP). You can be as messy with this layer as you want, since it's the first coat. 

The chainmail coat on the outer skirt is painted with Liberator Gold (GW), then washed with Dark Tone (AP). Once the wash is dry, I glazed a thin layer of Reikland Fleshshade (GW) over the gold to give it a warm tone. The rest of the armor and front of the shields are painted with Gun Metal (AP) and washed with Dark Tone (AP). Once the shield is dry, lightly drybrush several layers of Liberator Gold (GW) over the dragon design until a nice soft gold tone is achieved. 


The spear hafts, back of the shields, and bows are painted with Leather Brown (AP) and washed with Agrax Earthshade (GW). Some of the models have seaweed pendants on the shields and spears. I painted these with a 50/50 mix of Army Green (AP) and Skeleton Bone (AP), which results in a nice palm frond color. I then washed it with Green Tone (AP). 

The sword and spear tips are painted with Plate Mail Metal (AP) then highlighted with Shining Silver (AP). I used Shining Silver (AP) to paint any of the gems before coating them in Soulstone Blue (GW) a technical paint that creates an easy gem effect. 

The gloves and boots are painted with Uniform Grey (AP) and washed with Dark Tone (AP). 


To denote their allegiance to the Amber Fiefdoms, each soldier wears an amber sash. The basecoat is Averland Sunset (GW) which took several layers to get an opaque enough color. Once dry, very carefully wash the sashes with Casandora Yellow (GW). This has a tendency to run, so if it gets on any of the other colors you may have to do some cleanup. 

Any exposed skin is painted with Kislev Flesh (GW) then washed with Reikland Fleshshade (GW). For the unit leader, I painted the teeth and eyes Matt White (AP). Honestly, for the amount of effort it takes to make this look ok, I don't find it worth it, so I left it at the leader. For a character model I would recommend the extra effort, but for a unit who will most likely die in handfuls, I would rather not. 

To clean up any of the skin tone that got onto the helmet, paint over with Plate Mail Metal (AP). Not only does it clean up the paint job, but it highlights the metallic color of the helmet. 


On the back of the model, sits the quiver full of arrows. The quiver is painted the same way that the shields are. The arrow shafts are the same as the rest of the wooden details. The fletching is successive drybrushed layers of Matt White. 

For the hair, the majority of the models have brown hair. This is simply Oak Brown (AP) washed with Agrax Earthshade (GW). Some models have blonde hair, which is achieved with Desert Yellow (AP) washed with a bit of Soft Tone (AP), but not too much as to over power the blonde coloration. 


At this point, the majority of the models are done, with only the banner bearer and horn blower left. Originally, the banner was going to be white, but I really didn't want to deal with trying to get a smooth white layer over such a large area. Instead, I painted it with the same turquoise as the rest of the cloth. Before washing the flag, I heavily drybrushed the details with Plate Mail Metal (AP) before a final, light drybrush of Shining Silver (AP). Once dry, I washed with Blue Tone (AP) to tie all of the colors together. 

The horn was painted with Brass Scorpion (GW) and washed with Reikland Fleshshade (GW). I also used this method to paint a few of the trinkets on some of the other models. To suggest that the horn is hollow, I painted a bit of Matt Black (AP) at the tip of the horn. 


To finish all of the models off, the bases are painted with Burnt Umber craft paint from Apple Barrel. To achieve the red earth look, each base is drybrushed about three times with Fur Brown (AP). 

To tie the model to the base, the boots and bases of the robes are given a very light drybrush of Fur Brown (AP) as well. This gives the suggestion of dust kicked up and coating the model. Then paint the rims with Matt Black (AP). Flock the base with whatever variety of foliage that you desire. 

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